South India is diverse with a rich culture that is distinctly reflected in its traditional wear, mainly the saree. The motif, the thread, the weaving style, the colour, and the fabric choice are much more than design elements. These features announce where a woman comes from, her community, her culture, and thus act as a part of her identity.

Additionally, a saree narrates the story of the weavers, the skills they hold, their family tradition, and serves as an economic lifeline. Many towns in South India specialise in weaving and produce distinctive sarees crafted with knowledge passed down through generations.

In this article, let us take a closer look at the various types of handloom sarees produced in the five states of South India. From the intricate Uppada saree of Andhra Pradesh, vibrant Pochampally saree of Telangana, lustrous Mysore silk saree of Karnataka, graceful Kasavu saree of Kerala, to the grand Kanchipuram silk saree of Tamil Nadu, every state presents its unique creation, forming a vibrant tapestry of South India’s handloom heritage.

Handloom Sarees from the Five States of South India

When we talk about South India, the five states Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu often represent the region. This does not mean that weaving traditions are confined only to these states, but among the vast area, these states form the core of South India’s celebrated saree heritage. Let us explore how these iconic weaves embody the artistry and identity of South India.

Karnataka

Karnataka is rich in textile craftsmanship, and this can be seen directly through the fabric produced in the state. The region has some of the most iconic sarees of India as its home, and we have briefly discussed two such weaves.

Mysore Silk 

The lustrous Mysore silk saree, which originated from Mysore, is woven with pure mulberry silk and gold zari borders. Traditionally, the saree’s border is woven in zari made from pure silver plated with 24-carat gold, reflecting its luxuriousness and patronage of the Mysore royalty. Even today, premium quality sarees produced under Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation (KSIC) feature the pure zari. But, more affordable versions woven with tested zari are also available. The Mysore silk saree is known for its soft drape, radiant sheen, and timeless appeal.

Ilkal

The Ilkal saree is woven in Ilkal, a town in the Bagalkot district of Karnataka, and has held a Geographical Indication (GI) tag since 2007, making it one of the most distinctive handloom sarees of South India. The saree is known for its unique weaving style called the Tope Teni, where the body of the fabric is woven separately and then connected with the pallu by looping. The borders are usually woven in four styles: gomi (line design), jari (zig-zag), chikki (small squares), and gayatri (narrow stripes). The saree as a whole is normally bright in colour with contrasting borders.

Andhra Pradesh

Andhra Pradesh has some of the most beautiful silk sarees with amazing patterns made with the luxurious zari threads. We have elaborated on two of the most unique and graceful sarees from Andhra Pradesh.

Uppada Jamdani Saree

The Uppada Jamdani saree is woven in the coastal town of Uppada in Andhra Pradesh and has held a Geographical Indication (GI) tag since 2009. The fabric is crafted using the Jamdani weaving technique, which is a discontinuous weft method where denser weft threads are added to the fine warp yarn to make a pattern. This lightweight and airy textile is woven using pure silk, which is sometimes blended with zari. This blend ensures that the fabric is luxurious with a nice sheen as a finish.

Dharmavaram Saree

The iconic Dharmavaram silk saree is woven in Dharmavaram, a town in the Sri Sathya Sai district of Andhra Pradesh. This unique saree was granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2013–14. It is woven using a pit loom, a traditional weaving method that ensures the fabric is durable and aesthetically beautiful. The saree is crafted with mulberry silk, and zari is used for weaving the distinctive motif. The motifs are usually inspired by nature and tradition, making most of the designs floral or animal-based.

Telangana

Telangana has preserved one-of-a-kind weaving techniques passed down through generations, creating rich textile traditions. The two most iconic sarees from this state include,

Pochampally Saree

The Pochampally saree is woven in Bhoodan Pochampally, Yadadri Bhuvanagiri district of Telangana. This is one of the most unique and skill-intensive sarees of India and has been granted a Geographical Indication (GI) Tag in 2005. This vibrant and lightweight textile is woven using the double ikat technique known as Paagadu Bandhu locally. In this process, both the warp and the weft yarns go through resist dyeing before weaving, resulting in unique patterns that mirror on both sides of the fabric. The saree usually features geometric motifs that are formed from the way the yarns are dyed.

Gadwal Saree

The Gadwal saree is woven in the town of Gadwal in Telangana and was granted a Geographical Indication (GI) Tag in 2005–06 for its unique weaving technique and rich heritage. It is woven using the Kupadam method, where the body, border, and pallu of the saree are woven separately and then connected later, forming a distinctive joint pattern. The body of the saree is usually crafted in cotton, while the border and the pallu are done in silk and zari thread. The saree often features designs like stripes, checks, and beautiful floral motifs.

Kerala

Kerala has some of the most graceful sarees in India, known for their simplistic yet elegant designs and creative weaving techniques. Here are two classic sarees from Kerala,

Kasavu Saree

Traditionally, the Kasavu saree is woven across Kerala, but in recent years, weaving has become more concentrated in certain clusters. When we think of the Kasavu saree, its hallmark look, which is the cream body with the gold zari border, is unmissable. It is usually crafted in cotton or a blend of cotton and silk with zari thread. The weaving is done on a traditional handloom with an extra weft for the zari border. The simplicity of the saree makes it stand out among other ornate sarees.

Balaramapuram Saree

Known for its ultra-fine cotton weaving, the Balaramapuram saree is woven in Balaramapuram, a town in Thiruvananthapuram district, Kerala. The saree was granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2009. This hand-woven fabric is crafted in a pit loom, with unbleached cotton yarn and a golden zari border. The saree is usually plain with a cream-coloured body and a golden border, but at times, it also features simple geometric motifs. The softness of the fabric and its comfort on the body are what make this saree well known.

Tamil Nadu

Tamil Nadu is home to some of the most celebrated sarees in India, each reflecting rich tradition and artistry. Let us discuss two of these sarees together to understand the handloom heritage of this state better.

Kanjivaram (Kanchipuram) Saree

This prized Kanjivaram silk saree is woven in Kanchipuram town, Tamil Nadu, and was granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2005–06. This iconic saree is woven using pure mulberry silk, with zari interlaced for the border and pallu. In this type of weaving, the body, border, and pallu are often crafted separately and then joined together using an interlocking weave technique called the Korvai method. The saree is often adorned with motifs inspired by temples, mythology, and geometric patterns. It is known for its luxuriousness, durability, and contrasting rich borders.

Chettinad Saree (Chettinadu Saree)

This traditional Chettinad saree, locally known as the Kandangi saree, is woven in the Chettinad region of Sivaganga district, Tamil Nadu, and was granted Geographical Indication (GI) status on 30 August 2019. Woven primarily in cotton, this saree is celebrated for its bold checks, stripes, and contrasting borders in vibrant hues such as mustard, maroon, and black. The weaving technique gives the fabric a coarse yet durable texture, making it ideal for daily wear in the hot climate of Tamil Nadu.

Conclusion 

We have only touched on a few sarees from these five states, and there are many more to discover. SEERE is a saree brand, inviting you to explore every corner of India and uncover rare and exquisite weaves with us. We are working with artisans across the country, hoping to provide authentic sarees to our customers while ensuring that each style from every region of India is celebrated. We welcome you to join us on this journey of finding and cherishing the traditional sarees of India.