108 Drapes, One Identity: The Many Forms of the Saree

108 Drapes, One Identity: The Many Forms of the Saree
Draping a saree for the first time, sighing in frustration, pleats falling out, ending up with an oddly long or short pallu length, and the inevitable call to our mom for help is a memory almost all Indian women share. The way we drape our sarees may differ, but the shared memory beautifully embraces India’s diversity. The many faces of the saree unite India, serving as a symbol of national identity, even though each region has its own distinct draping style. There are numerous ways to drape a saree in India, along with many celebrated regional saree draping traditions. Ṛta Kapur Chishti documented 108 variations across 15 states in her 2010 work, ‘Saris: Tradition and Beyond’. Despite having more than a hundred documented draping styles, considering India’s enormous cultural diversity, it wouldn’t be surprising to imagine that many more remain undocumented. But before we explore those, let us first learn more about the documented saree draping styles. Let us look at some rare regional draping styles and appreciate the diversity within India’s fashion narratives.

Different Regional Saree Drapes of India

Let us explore some of the rare regional saree draping styles that many Indians may not be familiar with. Join us in celebrating every saree style by bringing back lost drapes, popularising them and helping every Indian discover their existence. 1.Nauvari Saree Drape [caption id="attachment_8468" align="alignnone" width="410"] Nauvari Saree[/caption] The word Nauvari means "nine yards," reflecting the length of the garment. This nine-yard saree is traditionally worn by women in Maharashtra. The Nauvari saree likely originated in the 17th century, during the Maratha rule. Chishti, in her book, notes that the style evolved from practical needs, as the Nauvari drape allows ease of movement. Women who ride horses, farm, fight, or engage in daily labour wear this saree. The drape is perfect for movement because the saree is wrapped around the waist and pulled between the legs, then tucked at the back like a dhoti. The remaining garment is pleated and wrapped across the chest and draped over the shoulder. This type of saree is worn without a petticoat, and even today, many wear it that way. Today, you will see this style of saree worn in festivals, weddings, and performances. However, this style is rarely worn as everyday attire, either within or outside Maharashtra. 2.Mekhala Chador [caption id="attachment_8482" align="alignnone" width="645"] Mekhala Chador[/caption] The Mekhala Chador is not specifically a saree, but it is a traditional attire of Assam that mimics the look of one. It consists of a mekhala, the lower wrap, and a chador, the upper garment. The lower garment, known as the mekhela, is wrapped around the waist and pleated neatly toward the right hip before being tucked in. The chador is then tucked into the upper part of the mekhala, wrapped across the chest, and draped over the shoulder. Historically, the Mekhala Chador was worn with a riha as a chest wrap, but now this has been replaced with blouses of numerous styles. Traditionally, the Mekhala Chador is handwoven with distinctive motifs, especially woven in silk. However, in a modern setting, the garment is made from various fabrics, features intricate embroidery, and is paired with fashionable blouses. 3.Kodava Saree Drape [caption id="attachment_8487" align="alignnone" width="800"] Kodava Saree Drape[/caption] The Kodava drape showcases one of the most unique regional' saree draping traditions in India. This style hails from the Kodagu district in Karnataka and is worn by the Kodava community. This draping style is unique because the pleats of the saree, which are usually in the front, are reversed and tucked at the back. The pallu is wrapped across the back and pulled over the right shoulder, where it is neatly pinned to the shoulder. This is usually worn with various styles of blouses, a petticoat, and calf-length undergarments. The beginning of this drape is usually associated with a mythological tale of Sage Agasthya and his wife, Cauvery. In one version of this tale, Cauvery was about to transform herself into a river to serve humanity, but the Sage Agasthya tried to stop her, and in this process, the pleats of the saree were pushed backwards. This story is believed to be the inspiration for this unique Kodava drape. 4.Santhal Saree Drape [caption id="attachment_8488" align="alignnone" width="741"] Santhal Saree Drape[/caption] 5.Madisar Saree Drape The Santhal saree drape is traditionally worn by the Santhal tribe. Santhals are one of the most prominent indigenous communities in India, primarily from Jharkhand, Odisha, West Bengal, Assam, and Bihar. The Santhal drape is one of the simplest yet most unique saree drapes in India. The garment is usually 4-5 yards long, with a box pleat in the front, and the pallu draped over the shoulder. In some cases, the pallu is tucked at the waist in the front, while in others, it is left loose. [caption id="attachment_8490" align="alignnone" width="459"] Madisar Saree Drape[/caption] Historically, the Madisar drape was worn by Iyer and Iyengar Tamil Brahmin women. This nine-yard garment is usually worn during religious ceremonies, rituals, weddings, and temple visits. The saree is draped like a dhoti, where it is wrapped around the waist, then pulled between the legs and tucked at the back. The pallu is then wrapped across the chest, over the left shoulder, and can be tucked at the waist or wrapped around the torso. This saree drape is more than fashion, as the blend of dhoti and saree is considered a balance between feminine and masculine energy, a cosmic harmony. The saree is traditionally worn only after marriage, as it signifies the transition into Grihastha Ashrama — the householder stage in the Vedic life cycle. Even today, Tamil women wear this classic saree during marriage or religious ceremonies. For day-to-day wear, the saree has gone through some changes, and many have shortened the garment to six yards for comfort and practicality. This saree is also not commonly worn as daily wear; rather, it is only brought out during occasions.

Traditional vs Modern Saree Drapes

The saree is much more than a garment for Indian women. It is a mark of tradition, a national identity, and its changes also symbolise the evolving role of women in society. These factors bring out a fascinating distinction between traditional saree drapes and modern saree drapes. Traditionally, the way a saree is worn is rooted in religious beliefs, regional practices, caste-based customs, and the functional needs of the local geography. For instance, the ancient Nauvari style reflects that women of the time were farmers and even warriors, while the Madisar saree reflects Tamil religious practices during that period. Each region of India developed its unique draping style according to its beliefs, livelihood, and climate conditions. In contrast, modern saree drapes are born out of convenience, experimentation, and fashion fusion. The younger generation focuses on speed and convenience; thus, their drapes reflect this vividly. Pre-stitched sarees are gaining popularity, while pant-style sarees and belted sarees are trending. The difference can also be spotted in the fabric choices of the saree. Various fabrics like chiffon, denim, georgette, lycra, and other easy-care materials are more in demand. Modern drapes focus more on self-expression, accessibility, and reinvention.

Conclusion

Changes and reimagination are natural, and the saree as we know it today is itself the result of centuries of evolution. Change is not the enemy, but due to our rush for convenience, we have lost and forgotten various drapes and the rich history of India’s irreplaceable weaves. SEERE is a brand born in such a backdrop, committed to reviving forgotten drapes by reconnecting with lost traditions. We are a brand working directly with various regional weavers and bringing authentic sarees to the market. Our hope is for the saree to not only survive but be a prominent part of the future of Indian fashion. We invite you on this journey of reviving and exploring the legacy of India’s many regional saree drapes.