The saree(sari) embraces the beauty and elegance of Indian textile craftsmanship both historically and currently. When discussing Indian textile history, from ancient Indian textiles to now, the saree is a garment that cannot be left behind. It is a piece that has an ageless appeal and has gracefully stood the test of time.

Is it not interesting to note that the saree has been with Indians through transitioning civilisations, changing reigns, countless wars, and a rapidly developing culture? We rarely study our history with textiles or garments, which is a shame, because the history of the saree is a rich story tied to India since the Indus Valley Civilisation.

So, today let us walk through the history of the saree, when Indians started wearing it, how it has changed, what it has become today, and its significance in Indian culture.

What is a Saree, and Why is it Not Stitched or Cut?

The word ‘sari’ is a Sanskrit word, meaning ‘strip of cloth’. In simple terms, a saree is a rectangular woven fabric that is around four to nine yards (3.5 to 8 m) long. This nine-yard saree is worn throughout South Asia, where the fabric is wrapped and draped in various styles, depending on the region and its culture. In this article, we will focus on the Indian saree. In India alone, there are 180 documented draping styles, showcasing the versatility of the garment. Its versatility also extends to its fabric choice, as it can be woven with many fabrics, some of the popular ones being cotton, linen, and silk.

Now, if you are wondering why the saree is a long one-piece garment without stitches or cuts, it is because of traditional values. In ancient India, the undisturbed flow of the saree is seen as a symbol of wholeness and unity. It is believed that stitching or cutting the fabric destroys its wholeness and purity. This purity is essential for religious rituals and other practices that hold cleanliness and wholeness as required. In modern India, this is not strictly practised, but you will be able to find unstitched and uncut sarees in abundance.

What is the History of a Saree Without a Blouse?

What did Saree look like at the start? Was it always the same as we know it now? Let’s go through the evolution of the Indian saree to find the answer.

1.Ancient Times

We can trace the origin of the saree in India to the Indus Valley Civilisation, specifically relics and statues from Harappa. When we look at these relics of goddesses, the most primitive stage of the saree and the early Indian drapes of the saree can be studied. In most relics and statues, women are shown wearing a length of unstitched woven fabric draped around the waist. In many cases, their breast are bare with jewellery covering them. While in some cases the fabric wraps the upper body or the breast partially.

Going forward, when we study ancient relics, statues, and figurines from around the 4th century BCE, it tells us that the saree didn’t start out as the saree we know today. In ancient India, women wore what was called the ‘Sattika’—a three-piece unstitched outfit consisting of the Antariya (the lower wrap), the Stanapatta (a chest band), and the Uttariya (a shoulder cloth or veil).

Other than relics, the first mention of the saree in text is in the Hindu book of hymns, the Rig Veda, which is dated around 1000-1500 BC. Mentions of a pleated fabric tucked below the naval region, with a waistband, point towards the saree. In Vedic clothing, there is no mention of a blouse; rather, the garment was draped over the upper body.

2.Changes Influenced by Islamic Dynasties

When India was under the rule of Islamic dynasties like the Tughlaqs, Khaljis, Shayyids, and Lodis, we can observe a significant change in the way they dressed. As Islamic teachings instruct women to be completely covered, this brought about changes to the perception of nudity. Royal women in court started wearing ‘angias’ (a form of blouse) and odhni (long scarf). This conservatism of Islam mixes with other practices from different regions and popularises wearing of breast bands or cholis, while leaving the belly out.

         Women’s Clothes in the Mughal Dynasty

The advent of the Mughals further assimilated the different cultures of Indians, and wearing blouses or cholis became more common. Please understand that not every woman wears a blouse, and some still have their breast out in the open. This is due to their class difference and position in society, and wearing blouses was never a united phenomenon in India.

3.Colonial Influence

When India was under the rule of Western colonisers, nudity was looked down upon as a practice of backwardness. The dress style of westerners also inspires and influences Indian women, and the blouse and undergarment become a key piece of the saree during this time. Foreign influence on Indian drapes can also be noticed as Indian women started draping the saree in a way that mimics the flow of western gowns.

The colonial period also brought about many reforms politically and socially for women. Reforms like encouraging women to educate themselves, the abolition of polygamy, fighting for widow remarriage, and more brought women out from their homes, and they started interacting with more people. At this time, even Indian society had a problem with women’s nudity, and the saree being draped as a single fabric without a blouse or petticoat meant not much was covered.

At this time, women like Jnanadanandini Devi, who has a vibrant social life, bring about significant reforms. Influenced by Parsee women, she introduced wearing the saree with pleats tucked in the middle, and draping it across the breast and letting the garment flow down the left shoulder. The style needs a woman to wear a blouse, and the use of a petticoat becomes essential. This draping style came to be known as Nivi and is one of the most popular draping styles even today.

Overall, these influences women to start wearing blouses. Furthermore, the blouse starts to have embroidery, frills, a high neck collar, and more designs. The style of the saree during this time is similar to what we have currently.

What Saree Looks Like in Modern India

So, after going through so many changes and surviving continuous dynasties, how does modern India perceive a saree?

To a lot of Indians, the saree is much more than a piece of garment; it is a priceless cultural asset that is tied to their identity as an Indian. It will be fair to say that many outsiders recognise us as Indians when they see us wearing a saree, draped beautifully in various styles. Although classic draping styles like Nivi are still popular, many regional draping styles and modern saree styles have emerged. Additionally, the blouse of the sari has also evolved and changed to suit the style and trends of each period.

In modern India, some sarees are stitched and cut into any style desired. But many are unstitched or uncut, mainly those sarees worn for weddings and other religious rituals. The blouse, however, is stitched and tailored to the desired shape and style.

Saree is a garment Indians are proud to wear and have adapted to many styles, we love. This was possible because of weavers who have kept traditional weaving style and fabrics alive through their interest and amazing craftsmanship. Weavers in different regions of India are contributing to the richness and luxuriousness of our textile industries through weaving sarees.

Conclusion

When we walk through the history of the saree in India, one reason why the saree has survived till today may be because of the Indian climate. The fact that a loosely draped garment is so popular is because it is comfortable to wear during the Indian hot summer and tropical climate. This is likely the reason our ancestors chose to wrap a fabric around their waist without a blouse. Whatever the case may be, from ancient royals wearing beautifully woven sarees to modern Indians showcasing it on red carpets, the saree is a part of Indian culture we proudly embrace as a piece of our identity.

In this context, Seere is an up-and-coming brand that hopes to be a part of India, which influences the rise of weaving traditions. We are working with, and hope to work with, more weavers from different regions in India and bring authentic and traditionally woven sarees to our customers. We hope to revive the dying arts of weaving that have accumulated from the centuries of history. There is no doubt that Indians love sarees, and there are thousands of weavers with historical knowledge about weaving sarees. Our job here is to connect the two and make the best of the opportunity. Join us in reviving ancient saree weaving techniques by supporting regional weavers all over India.