The lustrous, gold-laced Kanchipuram silk, the vibrant and breathable Chettinad cotton, and the delicate, elegant Venkatagiri muslins are some weaves that highlight the timeless grace of South Indian handloom craft. So, why does there lie a hint of sadness when we look at these beautiful crafts? 

The handlooms that once draped kings and adorned the temple halls are now disappearing. The weavers who once were proud of their profession suffer to compete with the rush of modern India; their crafts lie unadmired. South India, long a hotspot of rich textile craftsmanship, encapsulates tradition, history, and culture in their weaves, yet so many of these treasures are being forgotten.

Today, let us learn the stories of various weaving communities and dig deeper into the forgotten weaves of South India to understand why preserving these weaves is preserving a living history. 

The Fading Weaving Communities of South India

Let’s explore some historic weaving communities in South India with iconic weaves and rich history that embraces weaving as their age-old livelihood. Such communities do not take weaving just as a way to make a living; rather, they treat it as a sacred practice taught through generations. 

Devanga 

The Devanga community spans across Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Kerala, and Odisha. According to legend, they trace their lineage to Devala Maharshi, a mythical sage born from Lord Shiva’s third eye and regarded as the originator of weaving and clothing. Following this belief, the community has long considered weaving as their duty and a sacred vocation.

Historically, and even today, the Devangas are celebrated for their skill in weaving cotton, valued for its strength and quality. They are also renowned for producing cotton sarees with silk borders, often adorned with motifs inspired by temple architecture. Common designs include stepped gopurams, kalashas, and geometric patterns reminiscent of carvings on ancient South Indian shrines.

Even today, 80% of the community depends on weaving as their main livelihood. However, a study by the Centre for the Study of Social Exclusion and Inclusive Policy (CSSEIP) at the University of Mysore (UoM) shows that 90% of their youth are unwilling to continue with this traditional livelihood. The studies alarm us that traditional weaving is fading even in a community that holds the craft in such a high regard.

Padmasali 

The Padmasali community is spread across Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Maharashtra. The name Padmashali comes from two words: padma, meaning “lotus,” and shali, meaning “weaver” or “spider.” Mythologically, the community is said to have descended from the sage Rishi Markandeya, who is believed to have woven clothes for the gods using lotus thread from Vishnu’s navel. Because of this origin, the Padmasalis regard weaving as a sacred activity, closely associated with rituals and auspicious occasions.

Traditionally, the loom is considered a sacred altar. Weaving begins with prayers and is carried out at auspicious times. This reverence is also reflected in their fabric motifs; the lotus is widely used for its symbolic significance to the community. Other common motifs include the peacock, fire, parrots, mangoes (paisley), the loom, and more.

Padmasali weaving is rich in texture and technique, and is particularly known for its beautiful double ikat sarees, especially those produced by artisans from Puttapaka. They are also masters of the Jacquard technique, skillfully incorporating complex patterns into their work. Yet, despite their mastery and deep cultural connection to weaving, Padmasali craftsmanship is in steep decline.

Kaikolar (Sengunthar)

The Kaikolar community spans across Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and parts of Karnataka and Kerala. Historically, their origins trace back to the Chola dynasty, where they served as brave warriors defending the empire from the 8th to the 13th century. However, after the fall of the Cholas, the Kaikolars shifted from military service to weaving and textile trade.

Their expertise in cotton weaving has long sustained their livelihood, making cotton one of the preferred fabrics for daily wear. They produce high-quality cotton textiles, including fine muslins, and are equally renowned for their silk weaving and distinctive motifs. These designs often draw inspiration from nature, mythology, and temple architecture.

The Kaikolars are versatile weaving experts, proficient in multiple techniques. From plain weaves to ikat and jacquard, they have mastered them all. The skills and artistry passed down through generations are clearly reflected in the fabrics they create.

Some Forgotten Saree Weaves of South India

South India is home to some of the most iconic saree weaves in India. Yet, despite their beauty and cultural significance, with the rise of modern fashion trends and the spread of fast fashion, these crafts are losing their value. Many Indians have forgotten these exquisite weaves and the stories they carry.

Gadwal Saree (Telangana)

The Gadwal saree dates back to the 19th century and was introduced under the rule of the Hyderabad Nizams. These sarees are celebrated for their unique weaving method called the kuttu technique. In this technique, the body of the saree is woven separately from the border and the pallu. The body is often made of cotton, while the border and pallu are in silk with zari (gold or silver threads). After weaving, the parts of the saree are joined together in a way that ensures durability and highlights the beauty of the combined fabrics. Gadwal sarees often feature motifs inspired by nature and traditional patterns passed down through generations.

Uppada Saree (Andhra Pradesh)

The Uppada saree is believed to have been introduced in the 18th century by the Maharajas of Pithapuram, Venkatagiri, and Bobbili. These sarees are crafted using a weaving method called Jamdani. In this style, a design is first drafted on paper and then woven on the loom. The warp is generally cotton, with a silk weft, and zari threads are used to create distinctive patterns. The motifs are often woven diagonally and are typically floral or geometric. The final product is lightweight yet luxurious.

Puttapaka Saree (Andhra Pradesh)

Puttapaka sarees originated in Puttapaka, in the Nalgonda district, hence the name. These sarees are one of a kind and extremely expensive, as they are woven using the double ikat technique. In this method, both the warp and weft yarns go through a resist-dyeing process before weaving. The pattern in which the yarns are dyed determines the entire motif of the saree. This means a design must be created before dyeing begins, and the yarns are dyed accordingly. The process does not end there; the patterns in the weft and warp yarns must align perfectly during weaving for the design to come to life.

Molakalmuru Sarees (Karnataka)

Molakalmuru saree weaving began only a few decades ago when the Saurashtra people of the Swakulasali community from Maharashtra and the Padmasali community from Andhra Pradesh settled in the town. Molakalmuru sarees are woven using two main techniques — the kuttu technique and the chalu technique. In the kuttu technique, the border and body wefts are interlaced manually with three throw shuttles. In the chalu technique, the existing warp ends are joined with new warp ends at the pallu. These sarees are mostly woven with mulberry silk and zari thread, featuring intricate motifs. The designs are often inspired by nature, with floral and animal patterns being especially popular, while geometric and symmetrical motifs are gaining recognition in recent years.

Udupi Cotton Sarees (Karnataka)

The tradition of weaving Udupi sarees dates back to the 1800s and is rooted in the coastal regions of Karnataka, particularly the Udupi and Dakshina Kannada districts. These sarees were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2016, showcasing their uniqueness and beauty. Udupi sarees are woven using the Malabar frame loom, with dyed warp yarns produced through resist-dyeing. Before weaving, the warp yarn is coated with starch for durability and to reduce abrasion during the process. During weaving, extra weft yarns are inserted to form the distinctive patterns of Udupi sarees. Most sarees are plain, though some feature striking chequered patterns.

Conclusion 

India today is accompanied by constant changes, rapid development, and a rush to move forward. In this rush, we, as a society, may be too occupied to admire our traditional crafts and craftmasters who have clothed us for centuries. As we hustle to keep up with rapidly evolving fashion trends, while being swayed by the convenience of fast fashion, we may lose the priceless weaves our ancestors have left for us. With this fear, and with hope for reviving forgotten weaves, SEERE is working directly with local weavers and bringing authentic sarees to the market. We are collaborating with weavers all over India to ensure that even the rarest sarees can be made available for our customers. We invite you to join us in celebrating this priceless art and preserving each story of the weavers and their weaves.