A little girl with a big grin sneaks into her mother’s wardrobe and drapes a saree oddly and playfully. Isn’t this a childhood memory shared by many Indian women nation wide? From our grandmothers to our mothers and to us, every Indian woman has worn a saree, although it has evolved differently in each generation.

Our generation may not wear the same saree as our mothers’ generation, or we may not wear it as often either, but this does not mean the saree is dying. Indians take pride in wearing beautiful sarees and showcasing our culture through them; the style of the saree may change, however, our love for the garment has never faltered. We should discuss not the loss of the saree, but the saree’s evolution according to the needs of various generations. In this article, let us go through the different phases of the saree in our history, what it has become today, and how we are wearing it.

Evolution of Saree Through History

If a saree can change so much within digitally recorded history, don’t you wonder how many times it has changed before and what it originally looked like? Let us trace back the first mention of the saree to understand the saree’s history better.

1.Indus Valley Civilisation

By studying the relics and statues found during this period, we can trace the first existence of the saree as a long piece of uncut and unstitched cloth that is draped around the waist. The chest is left bare in most instances. During this era, cotton was the main fabric used for weaving the saree. The breathability of the cotton and the loose drape of the saree were perfect for the hot and tropical climate of India.

2.Vedic Period

The first mention of the saree in writing is in the Rig Veda. During this period, the saree can be seen as a three-piece garment. These included the Antariya (the lower wrap), the Stanapatta (a chest band), and the Uttariya (a shoulder cloth or veil). At the same time, there were mentions of draping the saree at the waist and leaving the chest bare, or wrapping it across the breast over the shoulder. Use of cotton was still very prevalent, and adding natural dyes and intricate weaving patterns became more popular.

3.Islamic Rule

During the Islamic rule in India, roughly 12th century to the 18th century, the saree went through another change, and it became much more decorated. Places like Varanasi became known for silk weaving, where gold and silver thread were used. Woven fabrics like brocade and muslin also became a popular choice for the saree. Handloom sarees were highly celebrated during the Islamic rule. Women also started wearing choli, influenced by Islamic practices. The drape during this period is very similar to what we have today.

4.IColonial Period

The impact of colonialism on Indian textiles can be seen clearly through the saree. Due to the British view on nudity as backwardness, it was no longer accepted as normal; rather, wearing a blouse and a petticoat with a saree became essential. Colonial rulers also introduced cheap factory-made fabric, which affected the handloom saree tremendously, with weavers losing jobs. This is where Indian leaders like Mahatma Gandhi used the saree as a cultural identity, as he urged women to wear a khadi saree as a symbol of protest. Women leaders like Sarojini Naidu also wore a saree while facing the British as a statement of cultural pride

Saree in Post-colonial India

As India gained its independence, there was a huge generational shift in Indian fashion. India’s fashion during this age was a mix of our culture and Western influence. The saree was no exception to this shift and went through another change. Blouses became an integral part of what came to be known as the saree during this time. The blouses and the saree became much more decorated as designs like ruffles and prints became the trend.

After independence, regional drapes also gained popularity; women from different regions of India proudly wore the saree in various regional drapes. Classic drapes like Nivi style remain popular, while we also notice a rise in the popularity of regional drapes like Atpoure drape (West Bengal), Kashta drape (Maharashtra), Mundum Neriyathum drape (Kerala), and Madisar drape (Tamil Nadu). The saree, draped in different regional styles, captures the diversity and the cultural richness of India.

Notable women leaders like Indira Gandhi, the first Indian woman prime minister, often wore a handloom saree. Her choices promoted the importance of indigenous craftsmanship and highlighted the rich textile culture of India even outside of our country.

Bollywood Effect on Modern Saree

When we talk about modern ways of wearing a saree, the Bollywood influence cannot be left out. From the iconic Mumtaz style saree, worn by the actor Mumtaz in Brahmachari, to the regal Rekha wearing a luxurious Kanjeevaram silk saree on various red carpets, Bollywood has reimagined and popularised various styles of saree nationally and globally. The legendary actor Sridevi also set new saree trends by popularising chiffon sarees in the iconic film Mr. India, giving the fabric a romantic and cinematic appeal that remains timeless.

More recently, Bollywood actor Alia Bhatt wore a beautiful floral saree to the Met Gala, making waves internationally. Bollywood actors are proudly showcasing Indian culture and traditional wear in movies, on red carpets, and on numerous runways, influencing all Indians and beyond. The fact that talented designers such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Manish Malhotra are passionate about designing iconic sarees also makes the saree stand out in today’s fashion world.

What we should understand is, even in Bollywood, the saree has gone through various evolutions and trends have shifted each day, but the garment has never disappeared from the mainstream. With each new trend, the saree is becoming more popular and gaining new looks.

Beyond Tradition: Saree with Gen Z

Gen Z is the latest generation that is reimagining the saree and designing it in never-seen styles. With Gen Z, the saree is worn for everyday wear with a modern twist to the fabric and blouse. Wearing a crop top as a blouse with a denim fabric saree and boots to finish the look is as innovative as it gets. To make the saree drape simpler and easier to wear, pre-stitched sarees are becoming more and more popular.

Regional sarees are also gaining attention nationwide, as many Gen Z embraces the diversity of India and are ready to experiment and wear various regional styles that they are not very familiar with. Social media has also made this much easier, as the styles are readily available to them. Gen Z is also creating communities on social media with a primary focus on the saree. Making reels and videos on how to drape a saree, exploring various regional styles, and assimilating modern and cultural styles are very common.

Saree with a fusion of fabrics like denim, linen, chiffons, and georgettes with bold prints and contemporary motifs is becoming a trend. This does not mean traditional embroidery and looks are vanishing, as “vintage looks” are a fashion trend most people strive for. This, along with their promotion of sustainable clothing, is further strengthening the longevity of the saree.

Many women, both Gen Z and other generations, also wear a saree as workwear. In India, it is common to see many professional women wearing beautiful sarees for work. In order to make it comfortable for work, they make some changes to the saree, further adding to its evolution. For instance, they use lightweight fabrics, shorten the pallu, design comfortable blouses, and make other changes to make it more practical.

Conclusion

The saree has been with Indians since ancient civilisation and has become a core part of Indian culture and identity. From the Indus Valley to Gen Z, it has stood the test of time gracefully. Saree has gone through many changes and has a rich history worth exploring. In Indian history, there was no time when the saree was not worn, and looking at Gen Z’s interest in the saree, it won’t be wrong to say the future of the saree remains bright. There is no doubt the saree will further evolve and go through various changes, but it will remain a living tradition that Indians are proud to adorn.

One other main reason the saree remains a part of India for so long is that the weavers of different times never lost their love for the garment. Even in our times, there are many weavers from different regions who are weaving sarees using various traditional and modern methods. They have done their part to keep our living tradition alive, so now it is our time to support them. This is where SEERE comes in, a brand that directly connects with weavers from different regions in India and brings authentic and traditionally woven sarees to our customers. Let us work together to support our weavers and enrich the story of the saree.